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Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated near the top among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks a family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest place achieving such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary honour.